ISSUE 84

 Return to the BUILD


In this issue, we will install windows into the forward cabin bulkheads before attaching them to the bridge deck.

 

Contents


Parts

Materials: The Windows are photo-etch metal while the non-electrical parts are plastic in this issue.

Magazine

  • Life on Board – Shopping aboard the Luxury Liners
  • Step-by-Step Instructions

Build


Cabin Bulkheads and Windows

As in Issue 81, I airbrushed the inner surfaces of these Cabin Bulkheads with the same black and chrome paint treatment I have used throughout my Titanic build. I also added my Frosted Windows mod by gluing sanded strips of acrylic sheet to the insides of the window openings:

Step 1

Carefully cut seven (7) Windows from the photo-etch sheet. Glue these Windows into the matching openings along the outside of the Bulkhead for Port Cabins.

Take care not to lose any of these Windows as we will use every one of them. Working on one window at a time, I applied a couple tiny drops of super glue onto the recessed ledge of a window opening. I highly recommend using a tool such as the Vallejo T12005 Pick & Place Tool – it makes short work of installing these windows:

Step 2

Carefully cut the remaining seven (7) Windows from the photo-etch sheet. Glue these Windows into the matching openings along the outside of the Bulkhead for Starboard Cabins:

Step 3

Fit three Connectors over the keyed posts on the inside of each Bulkhead, then secure them with six (6) AP screws as shown:

Step 4

Retrieve your Bridge Deck assembly from the previous issue. Fit the Connectors of the Bulkhead for Port Cabins over the three matching posts at this location across the seam of the two Sections, as shown:

Secure this Bulkhead into place with three (3) AP screws:

In the same way, fit the Connectors of the Bulkhead for Starboard Cabins at this opposite (right) side location, and then secure the Bulkhead into place with three (3) more AP screws:

The long, narrow areas enclosed by these Bulkheads were actually the private promenades for the parlor suites on both sides of the ship. The wider areas were the 1st class boarding entrances. These two areas would have been separated by a wall (and a door). Therefore, I used some pieces of 1mm thick white ABS plastic sheet to create these walls on my model:

And, here is the other side. Note how I aligned the outside edge of these new ‘walls’ to the edge of this nearby window (circled below). You may also notice that I decided to seal the gap between the Forward Section and Second Section of the Bridge Deck with some Black Tulip Fabric Paint:

Here are the new separating walls in place on both sides:

Step 5

Turn your Bridge Deck assembly over, and then clip the LED Strip into this location on the underside of the Second Section of the Bridge Deck, matching the corner notches together as shown:

In the publisher’s instructions under this step, they keep referring to the Second Section as part 81A, this is incorrect- it is part 82A:

Thoughts


I am sure most people looking at our Titanic would not even notice these walls missing, but I am trying to do small, simple things to make out model more accurate. We are done working with the Bridge Deck assembly for this pack, so it can be safely stored along with the unused LED Cable (which will be needed in the next pack).

Next Up


Issue 85 – Lower Port Hull (Engine Room Opening)

2 thoughts on “ISSUE 84”

  1. Hi there, I am on the pack just after this one…all 3 bridge decks together. I am extremely interested to know your opinion on the upward curve to the 3 bridge decks once put together? I have a pretty big gap once I lay it on top of the metal hull. I have heard that once the decks are put inside it, it will help flatten, but I have to push on mine with a good amount of pressure in order to get it flat to be flush with the metal hull. I really hope this solves itself, as I can’t think of a good fix if it doesn’t. Anyways…looking forward to your thoughts!

    1. Yeah, I am not sure how that is going to work. The Bridge Deck is definitely curved up at both ends to create a sheer look. However, the metal hull looks pretty straight to me.

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