Return to the BUILD
In this issue, we will install the forward bridge side walls, the port/starboard wing bulkheads, and the wing lamps.
Materials: All of the non-electrical parts in this issue are plastic.
- Giant of the Sea – Between Two Eras
- 20th Century – Titanic the Blockbuster (Part V)
- Step-by-Step Instructions
I only had a couple of things to paint in this issue. First, I hand-painted this bottom panel of both Bridge Bulkheads with my Vallejo Model Air 71.057 Black acrylic paint. This is the final piece that will help block the navigational Light LEDs from bleeding through:
Then, just for fun, I masked off and hand-painted these tiny wall shelves on the Bulkheads A and B with my Vallejo Model Air 71.036 Mahogany acrylic paint to match the Platforms, Binnacle bases, and Pelorus stands from the previous issue:
Retrieve your Boat Deck/Bridge assembly from the previous issue. Firmly press the three pins of the Port Bridge Bulkhead into the matching holes at this left-side location of the Decking for Bridge.
Align the three pins first, then slowly start pressing this Bulkhead into place. Once all three pins are started, you can use a bit more force to seat it flush, as shown. Note that there is a groove in the wing cab roof of the Bulkhead that needs to sit down onto the existing walls:
Repeat this process on the right side of the Decking for Bridge using the Starboard Bridge Bulkhead:
Press the two pins of Bulkhead A (Port) into the matching holes at this left-side location of the bridge Decking. Note the location of the small wall shelf – these shelves should be towards the rear of the ship, as shown:
In the same way, press the two pins of Bulkhead B (Starboard) into the matching holes of the bridge Decking on the opposite side, as shown:
Here, I wanted to share how I aligned and fully secured my Pillars from the previous issue. Included with this issue are the removable bridge roofs Panel 1 and Panel 2. The larger of these roofs (Panel 1) has two small pins (arrows below) and two recessed holes (circled below):
The small pins are designed to fit into the holes on top of Bulkheads A and B (43B) at the front sides of the navigating bridge. The recessed holes are designed to fit on top of the Pillars, like this:
With Panel 1 in hand, I added a drop of super glue gel into the Decking holes for the Pillars. Do not use any glue on Panel 1:
Before the glue could set, I quickly set Panel 1 into place and aligned the tops of the Pillars into the Panel 1 holes. I left this alone for a good 10 minutes to be sure the glue would now hold the Pillars in the correct position regardless of if the roof was there or not. Once happy with the fitment, the Panel could be removed:
Press the small pin of a Lamp into the hole on top of the Port Bridge Bulkhead, as shown.
These Lamps are a tight fit, so take it slowly so we do not bend or break them.
Fun Fact: On the real Titanic, these were the Morse signaling lamps. They were controlled by switches inside each wing cab and were used to send Morse code messages to nearby ships/stations via flashes of light.
In the same way, press the pin of the second Lamp into this hole on top of the Starboard Bridge Bulkhead:
Carefully turn your Boat Deck/Bridge assembly upside down. Fit the LED Strip into place under the four mounting tabs, as shown.
This LED Strip is designed to only fit one way – note how the angled corner in the upper left matches the ridges on the underside of the Boat Deck. Take care not to damage any of the details on the topside of the deck. I just held the entire assembly in my hands away from my work surface as this LED Strip pops in much easier than the ones we have already installed:
Connect the plug of the port Light LED (marked ‘L’) into the LED Strip socket marked ‘J1’. Likewise, connect the plug of the starboard Light LED (marked ‘M’) into the nearby socket marked ‘J2’.
As with all socket connections, these have specific polarity – check the plugs, insert them correctly, and do not force them:
Connect the plugs of the LED Cable (marked ‘Z’) between the MOT/LED socket of the Tester Unit (from Issue 3) and the LED Strip socket marked ‘J4’:
If the batteries in your Tester are good, we should see our LED Strip and both navigation lights turn on.
Here, we can see that our LED Strip is lighting up the interior and our light-blocking paintwork is working as intended:
Similarly, our light-blocking paintwork around the navigation lights is also keeping the bleed-through to a minimum:
When satisfied with the lighting, disconnect the Tester Unit from the LED Cable leaving the cable attached to the LED Strip.
With these bulkheads installed, I believe we have finished the bridge section of our Titanic. I am very pleased with how the light-blocking is turning out as I feel the navigation lights look superb! Keep the two bridge roof Panels 1 and 2 stored safely until we need them later.
Issue 44 – Central Section of Boat Deck, Decking, Connecting Plates