Return to the BUILD
In this issue, we will install the final propellers and brace their shafts, then add the starboard main anchor to the bow.
Materials: The Shafts, Propellers, Starboard Anchor, and Clip are metal – the Plates are plastic.
- Giant of the Sea – Safety, Speed and Luxury
- 20th Century – Titanic the Blockbuster (Part III)
- Step-by-Step Instructions
Based on a few different sources, I decided to paint the ‘boss’ or central part of each propeller as they would have been on the real Titanic. While the propellers were brass, it is very likely that the hull’s anti-fouling paint would have been applied to specific parts of them such as the wing propeller roots and boss end caps to prevent corrosion where the parts were connected together. From a wreck picture, we can still see this paint:
To accomplish this look, I first masked off the blades of the wing Port and Starboard Propellers. For the Central Propeller, I only left the tip of the boss exposed. The real center prop was cast as one piece in solid brass, but the boss cap would have been a separate part so this area was all I wanted to paint. Then, I airbrushed the exposed sections with the same Vallejo Anti-Fouling Red 71.442 acrylic paint I have been using for the lower hull. I chose not to clear coat these parts as I did not want to change the sheen of the supplied brass model parts:
Acrylic paint does not like to adhere well to these parts like these, so it required extra care when removing the masking:
Fit the D-shaped tips on one end of each shorter Side Shaft into the matching holes of the larger Port and Starboard Propellers, and fit the D-shaped tip at one end of the longer Central Propeller Shaft into the matching hole of the smaller Central Propeller, as shown.
To tell the difference between the Port and Starboard propellers, look at the pitch angle of the blades below – they are opposite each other. Do not glue these Propellers to the Shafts just yet – they will be secured later on in the build.
Fun Fact: The ongoing discussion around whether Titanic had a 3-bladed or 4-bladed center propeller has been around for a very long time. However, more recent discoveries (post-2007) lean toward the ship actually having a 3-bladed center propeller. Sadly, our model came with a 4-bladed version.
Retrieve your Engine Room Deck assembly from the previous stage. Insert the free D-shaped end of each Shaft into the Gearbox, as shown:
Slide the Side Shaft with the Port Propeller into the rear of the left-side Cog E in the Gearbox.
Slide the Central Propeller Shaft into the rear of the center Cog E in the Gearbox.
Slide the Side Shaft with the Starboard Propeller into the rear of the right-side Cog E in the Gearbox.
TIP: While working on this assembly, try using the small cardboard boxes that the parts were packed in as supports to help raise the engine room Floor up off your work surface.
Make sure all of these Shafts are fully inserted into their respective Cog E. Do not use any glue in this step:
Fit the two Side Plates over the matching posts at these locations just behind the Gearbox, covering the Propeller Shafts, as shown:
Secure the Side Plates to the Engine Room Floor Section (Stern) with four (4) AP screws, two for each:
Fit the Central Plate over the matching posts at this location along the Central Propeller Shaft, noting the orientation:
The angled ledge on the sides of this Central Plate should be parallel to the angle of the Engine Room Floor Section (Stern), as shown:
Secure this Plate into place with two (2) more AP screws:
In the same way, fit the Stern Plate over the matching posts at this location at the end of the Floor Section, noting the orientation shown:
Secure this Stern Plate into place with two (2) more AP screws:
Following the instructions in Issue 38, test the electric Motor operation once again. When the switch is in the AHEAD position, the three Propellers should turn in the directions shown:
When the switch is in the ASTERN position, only the two outer wing Propellers should turn in the opposite direction:
Retrieve your hull Bow section from Issue 24. Feed the chain of the Starboard Anchor up through the right-side hawse pipe, as shown:
With both Anchors pulled up into the hawse pipes, check the length of each chain. If they are the same length, they can both be connected directly to the clasp of the Anchor Winch mechanism, as shown:
If the Anchor chain lengths or the resting Anchor position is not ideal, use the supplied Clip to adjust the chain connections.
On my model, the Anchors did not fully sit in their hawse pipes when raised. Therefore, I equalized them by pulling them snug into the pipes, then holding the ends of the chains towards the Anchor Winch clasp. When I found the right distance, I attached the Clip to the links of both Anchor chains:
Finally, I attached the clasp of the Anchor Winch to other end of the Clip. Note how much chain I needed to ‘skip’ here:
I wanted my chains under slight tension from the Anchor Winch so they would stay in the hawse pipes as I intended:
Test the operation of the main Anchors by pulling them both down from outside the hull. Once released, they should return to their stowed position evenly.
As I painted the inside of both hawse pipes, I have no intention of ever ‘dropping’ the Anchors on my model to use this mechanism.
When my Propellers are turning, they do wobble around a bit but that is to be expected as the engine room floor is plastic and flexes. Once this assembly is mounted into the hull, it should be much more stable.
Issue 41 – Forward Boat Deck and Bridge, Decking for Bridge, Navigation LED Lights