ISSUE 29

Return to the BUILD

In this issue, the Crankshaft is installed into our starboard engine.

This issue will be nearly identical to the steps we followed to build the port engine in Issue 3, Issue 5, Issue 6, Issue 7, and Issue 10.

Parts

Materials: While the Crankshaft is metal, the other parts in this issue are plastic.

Magazine

20th Century – International Comic and Into the Future
Step-by-Step Instructions

Build

Crankshaft for the Second Engine

Step 1

Retrieve your four Piston Rod/Connecting Rod assemblies from the previous issue. Then, place the Crankshaft on your work surface as shown noting the position of the longer pin on the left (circled below):

Then, snap the clips of the Connecting Rods to these journals of the Crankshaft with the open end of the clip facing up, as shown.

Do not use glue in any of these steps as these parts need to be able to move:

Step 2

Retrieve your Columns for the Starboard Side assembly from the previous issue. With the longer pin of the Crankshaft to the left (circled below), position the Piston Rods into the grooves (arrows below) of each Cylinder as shown:

Make sure these Piston Rods are far enough inside each Cylinder that the disc at the end of the Rod is above the stop tabs of each one (arrows below):

Step 3

Retrieve your Columns for Port Side assembly from Issue 27. Fit these port Cylinders to the starboard Cylinders capturing the Piston Rods in place, and then press the two Cylinder halves together as shown.

Take care to make sure the Piston Rods stay in their respective grooves of the Cylinders while bringing these two assemblies together. Don’t worry about any gaps along the tops of the Cylinders right now – there are parts in the following steps that will lock these two Cylinder halves together:

Step 4

Install the four Cylinder Heads, as shown. The pins of these parts are different sizes, so they will only fit one way correctly.

Press the two pins of the largest-sized Cylinder Head A (29K) into the matching holes of the low pressure cylinders at each ends.
Press the two pins of the medium-sized Cylinder Head B (29I) into the matching holes of the intermediate pressure cylinder.
Press the two pins of the smallest-sized Cylinder Head C (29F) into the matching holes of the high pressure cylinder.

These four Cylinder Heads should be a press-fit connection, but you can use a small drop of super glue if needed. These parts will help seal up the gap along the tops of the heads:

Press the two pins of the Distribution Valves into the matching holes of the low pressure cylinders at the ends, as shown. The pins of these parts are different sizes, so they will only fit one way correctly:

Step 5

Retrieve your Valve Rod assemblies from Issue 27. With the taller square parts of the Shaft facing up (arrow below), snap the free clip of the Short Connectors to the Shaft as shown:

Step 6

With the longer pin (arrow below) of the Driveshaft to your left, snap the free clips of these Valve Rods to the empty journals of the Crankshaft. Note the open end of the clips are facing up here:

Flip this entire valvetrain assembly up over the engine until the four pins of the Shaft can be fitted into the matching holes of the Columns for Port Side, as shown.

You may have to wiggle the Valve Rod assemblies between the Columns as you do this. If the Shaft fits loosely, you can use a bit of super glue here:

If installed correctly, the four small ‘blocks’ on this Shaft will sit flush with the bases of the Cylinders:

Step 7

Fit the longer Stop Plate (Upper, Front) and shorter Stop Plate (Upper, Rear) between the Crankshaft and the bottom of the Column assembles. These should be cradling the ends of the Crankshaft. Press the Stop Plates fully down onto the posts of the Columns, as shown.

TIP: To tell the difference, the two Upper Stop Plates are flat around the screw holes, while the Lower Stop Plates have recessed screw holes:

Fit the longer Stop Plate (Lower, Front) over the Stop Plate (Upper, Front) and secure it into place with two (2) CM screws, as shown.

Note the open underside of this Stop Plate (Lower, Front) will capture the front end of the Crankshaft:

In the same way, fit the shorter Stop Plate (Lower, Rear) over the Stop Plate (Upper, Rear) and secure it into place with two (2) more CM screws. Make sure the raised ‘bump’ (arrow below) is facing away from the engine, as shown:

Step 8

Test fit the D-shaped hole of the Flywheel onto the matching D-shaped post at the tapered end of the Crankshaft. The embossed details (circular recess) of the Flywheel should be facing away from the engine. When happy with the fitment, use a small drop of super glue to secure the Flywheel into place, as shown.

IMPORTANT: As the fitment of this Crankshaft Cog can affect how the engine is mounted to the engine room floor in Issue 36, I recommend NOT gluing it into place until then. You may want to store it someplace safe so it does not get lost.

As with my port engine, I hand brushed this Flywheel with some Vallejo Signal Red Metallic paint. Not only do I think this color looks more interesting, I feel it is truer to how it might have been in the real Titanic engine room:

Similar to the port engine in Issue 5, I did eventually use my black Artistro Paint Pen to paint the four detail ‘blocks’ on this Shaft. However, I was already well into Issue 31 before I realized I forgot to do it here. This picture was taking during completion of that issue, but shows the painted parts:

Thoughts

I feel much better now our starboard engine cylinders are together and the valvetrain is fitted. So many moving parts!

Next Up

Issue 30 – Engine Base, Catwalk, Exhaust Valves, End Plate

My RMS Titanic