Return to the BUILD

In this issue, we will install windows on our two superstructure sections, lighting to our first class stairwell, and extend the wiring of the second funnel.




Materials: The Windows are photoetched metal and the non-electronic parts in this issue are plastic.


  • Giant of the Sea – The World’s Biggest Ship’s Dining Room
  • Step-by-Step Instructions


Windows for the Superstructure

On the real Titanic, the Rectangular Window frames for the windows of the Officers’ Quarters superstructure were actually made of brass. To simulate this color (and make it different from the passenger section windows), I masked these windows off and airbrushed them with Vallejo Model Air 71.032 Golden Brown acrylic paint. I decided against using an actual brass metallic paint here as it would not look right in scale:

The color difference here is not as apparent due to the bright lighting in my studio. However, it is actually quite noticeable in person:

Step 1

Carefully cut the twenty-five (25) Rectangular Windows from the photoetch sprue.

As before, I used a #10 rounded blade in my hobby knife on a small cutting board to remove these parts:

Any burrs left behind can be removed with sandpaper or a metal file. These parts are tiny and no spares are provided, so take care not to lose them:

Step 2

Retrieve your Officers’ Quarters assembly from Issue 20. Super glue twelve (12) Rectangular Windows into the matching window openings along the starboard side of the Officers’ Quarters. Note that the glazing bar goes at the top of each window.

It is recommended to prop this assembly up on its side so the starboard (right) surface is facing up:

Working on one window at a time, I applied a couple tiny drops of super glue onto the recessed ledge of a window opening. Then, I used fine-point tweezers to carefully place the window in the opening, with the glazing bar (middle crossbar) towards the top of the window opening.

TIP: Picking the windows up by the glazing bar will likely make it easier to set each window in place:

Finally, repeat this process for the remaining Rectangular Windows on this side, and then allow the glue to set:

Step 3

In the same way, super glue the remaining thirteen (13) Rectangular Windows into the matching window openings along the port side of the Officers’ Quarters as shown:

Step 4

Carefully cut sixteen (16) Arched Windows from the photoetch sprue.

Once these are cut free, there will still be four Arched Windows left on the sprue:

Retrieve your First Class Stairwell assembly from Issue 20. In the same way as before, glue eleven (11) Arched Windows into the matching window openings along the starboard side of the First Class Stairwell superstructure, as shown.

Again, I propped this assembly on its side to glue these windows into place. Be sure to allow this glue to set before moving on to the next step:

The eleventh Arched Window is around the corner on this rear wall, as shown here:

Step 5

Super glue five (5) Arched Windows into the matching window openings along the port side of the First Class Stairwell superstructure:

Installing the LED Strip

Step 6

Temporarily connect the LED Strip J2 to the MOT/LED socket of the Smoke Generator Tester Unit from Issue 3 and install 2 x AAA batteries (not included). This will allow us to test the operation of the lighting. Then, fit this LED Strip J2 into the underside of the First Class Stairwell superstructure, aligning the round LEDs into the matching holes. There are four clips that hold this LED Strip J2 in place.

As before, while aligning the round LEDs into their holes (circles below), I slid one edge of the LED Strip under two of these clips (arrows below). To make sure this is installed the correct way around, note that one end of the LED Strip has a cut corner that matches an angled ridge on the superstructure:

Step 7

To attach the other edge of the LED Strip, you may want to use a screwdriver or other tool to move the clips aside from above, as shown:

Second Funnel Extension Cable

Step 8

Retrieve your second Funnel assembly from Issue 19, remove the Grille, and slide the Tank assembly out.

You may want to remove the Tank from the first Funnel as well. This is to make sure the glue we used to install the Funnel details does not lock the Tanks in place. If you find yours stuck, push up on it through the hole in the bottom of the Funnel with a long tool such as screwdriver:

Using the Plastic Band, secure the wires of the Smoke Generator to lower part of the Tank, keeping the wires taut as shown:

Thread the larger female end of the Extension Cable K2 up through the second Funnel:

Mounting the Second Funnel

Step 9

Thread the lower (smaller plug) end of the Extension Cable K2 down through the larger opening at this location of the First Class Stairwell superstructure:

As you feed the Cable down, fit the two posts of the second Funnel into the matching holes of the superstructure, aligning it as shown:

Go slowly and take care not to damage the nearby Water Pipe that fits outside of the Funnel:

Secure the second Funnel into place from below with two (2) AP screws:

As before with the four Water Pipes on the my first Funnel, I removed the single Water Pipe for this second Funnel, snipped off the bottom pins, and glued it into place (vertically and straight up against) the Funnel surface:

Once this Funnel is secured, the Grilles on top of both Funnels can be reattached. Also, this is where I decided to add frosted window ‘glass’ to all of my window openings. I wrote up a entire Frosted Windows page explaining how I did it. With my ‘glass’ installed, I connected the LED Strip again – I love it!


Both of our first two Funnels have been installed and they look fantastic! To be honest, the Windows we added do not look that bad and add a nice color contrast to our superstructures. I think we are nearly done assembling these deckhouses! Keep the unused Arched Windows stored safely until we need them again in a later issue.

Next Up

Issue 23 – Anchor Winch, Base/Cover for Winch Housing

11 thoughts on “ISSUE 22”

  1. Hi, For step 8 in this section, I am not able to remove the tank from the first funnel as it is stuck. It comes up about 1/2″, but then something is causing it to be stuck. I have tried wiggling from all directions pulling from above, and also pushing from below. Do you have any possible suggestions for me? I literally have spent an hour on this troubleshooting and for the life of me cannot get the tank out. Thank you!

    1. It is not super important that the tank can be removed as long as you can pop out the top part with the Smoke Generator (ultrasonic atomizer) and expose the top opening of the tank to add water. You will just have to fill the tank later with a pipette or small hose.

      1. That is the part that is stuck in there…I have no idea what it is catching on and I can’t get it out. I know you don’t have to reply again, but if you have any possible suggestions for me, I really would be very grateful! I have tried so many things, I don’t know why or how it is stuck? Thank you in advance if you have any suggestions.

        1. My best guess would be to set the funnel on its cap, then gently tap the bottom of the tank through the square hole with a flathead screwdriver and small hammer to break it free.

        2. I had this issue as well and after removing it I did a test fit to see where it was catching, once I found the areas I went in the actual funnel and sanded (actually filed) down the areas until I was able to easily remove and place my entire smoke unit. Where I noticed mine was actually sticking was actually where I had attached the details to the black part of the funnel and it appeared that glue had actually seeped in and was causing the problem, I recommend you check there and see if yours is like that too

          1. You know, I will look inside my funnels and see if there are bits sticking through and sand them down. If so, I will add that detail to my steps.

  2. Ok thank you, I will keep trying. I did not do anything unique when putting the tank inside the funnel, so I am wondering if others at some point will have a similar issue? I just have no clue on what it is caught on inside the funnel. It does move around and then even with a great deal of force (either push/pull); it won’t come out. Anyway, thank you for the suggestion and thank you for what you do with this website. I look forward to checking it daily as we build 3 of the same partworks. Also, I (along with many) always look forward to your Eaglemoss updates 🙂

  3. I was just wondering, after frosting and adding windows (along with the chrome roof) it is allowing a much grander spread of light right? I noticed that mine was not lighting properly in the front with just the light blocking I did. I also wonder about the actual bridge lighting system or if it’s even going to be lit, guess we’ll just have to wait until maybe issue 42?

  4. @Alec Jacobi OMG…you are totally right!!!!!!!!! The details that were added are poking through inside the funnel which is preventing the tank from coming up! I have spent so much time on this and that was not something that crossed my mind! I just need to file down the plastic/glue that went inside it! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  5. Just one final update on the matter. It was not easy getting in there to sand, but I was at least lucky enough to not have the funnel attached to anything else while I was working on it. I think this could be an issue for a lot of people down the road, especially once more of the main part of the deck is finalized. My suggestion would be to immediately sand down the inside of the funnel after putting the detail on, or pre-sanding the sprue down before gluing it in the hole, so it does not protrude through the other side. Thank you both again for your comments and help on this!

  6. A great suggestion for the mod companies would be come spare windows. I had several ping into space, even with the care I took (OK I am a bit clumbsy)

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