Return to the BUILD

In this issue, we will be connecting the first two sections of the metal hull at the port bow.




Materials: The two Port Hull Sections are metal, but the Name Plate and Connecting Panel are plastic.


  • Phillips-head Screwdriver (appears to be PH0 sized)


  • Giant of the Sea – The Titanic Tragedy
  • A Date with Destiny – J. Bruce Ismay, the Owner
  • Life on Board – Haute Cuisine, Italian Style
  • Step-by-Step Instructions


Starting to Assemble the Hull

I went back and forth on this decision for a while, but finally came to the conclusion that I was not a fan of the maroon color used on this model for the hull’s anti-fouling paint. On White Star Line ships (and others) of the time, historians generally feel this paint was more of a salmon pink color. Thankfully, I had some Vallejo Anti-Fouling Red 71.442 paint that came with my Vallejo Titanic Colors set (see Issue 1) that is incredibly close to the color I wanted. Therefore, I airbrushed my entire Port Hull Section (Bow, Lower) in this new, more accurate color. Once dry, I then applied a topcoat of clear Vallejo Satin Varnish 70.522 to give it a slight shine and protect the color layer:

Step 1

Fit the rounded tabs of the Port Hull Section (Bow, Lower) over these posts of the Port Hull Section (Bow, Upper), as shown:

Secure these Port Hull Sections together with two (2) AM screws.

NOTE: Oddly, the screws included with this partwork have part numbers and type designations that do not match. For example, what is listed as part AM is described as 6×4 mm PM screws. When I measured this screw, it was actually 2.6×4 mm, so I have no idea what they are referring to. Since the instructions refer to the screws by their part number (AM in this case), that is what I will refer to throughout my build.

This is also the first of many friendly reminders to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Step 2

Fit the Connecting Panel to the rear edge of the Port Hull Sections, as shown:

Secure the Connecting Panel to the Port Hull Sections with four (4) AM screws:

It is my understanding that the insides of the ‘hawse’ pipes (anchor chain holes) in the hull were likely painted with anti-fouling paint. Therefore, I used a paint brush to add my new color to the interior of the forward hawse pipe hole, as shown:

UPDATE: While completing Pack 2, I came back and painted the inside of the hawse pipe on the side of this bow panel as well:


On the real Titanic, the hull plates were layered or ‘clinked’ to each other and this detail is nicely captured on these Hull Sections. However, I did notice that the portholes on these Hull Sections are solid, which is odd. Other builders are drilling these out, but I do not plan to go that far on my model. As for the unused Name Plate, keep it stored safely for now.

Next Up

Issue 3 – Engine Cylinders/Piston and Connecting Rods/Columns/Stop Plates/Crankshaft/Cog, Smoke Generator/Tester

4 thoughts on “ISSUE 2”

  1. First of all thank you very much for your excellent and detailed pages. This helps me so much to build R2D2, Ecto-1, Iron-Man and here Titanic.
    When you paint the Port Hull Sections, do ou paint them immediately with each issue? Does the colour still look “from one paint” with each further part? I am still not sure, if I should wait for more parts and paint them then all in once or just do it part after part. What do you recommend?

    1. I paint them as I receive them. As long as I paint them the same way, it should be fine. As the hull is spread out so much in the build, you would be waiting a long time to paint them at the same time.

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