ISSUE 2

Β Return to the BUILD


In this issue, we will be connecting the first two sections of the metal hull at the port bow.

 

Contents


Parts

Materials: The two Port Hull Sections are metal, but the Name Plate and Connecting Panel are plastic.

Tools

  • Phillips-head Screwdriver (appears to be PH0 sized)

Magazine

  • Giant of the Sea – The Titanic Tragedy
  • A Date with Destiny – J. Bruce Ismay, the Owner
  • Life on Board – Haute Cuisine, Italian Style
  • Step-by-Step Instructions

Build


Starting to Assemble the Hull

I went back and forth on this decision for a while, but finally came to the conclusion that I was not a fan of the maroon color used on this model for the hull’s anti-fouling paint. On White Star Line ships (and others) of the time, historians generally feel this paint was more of a salmon pink color. Thankfully, I had some Vallejo Anti-Fouling Red 71.442 paint that came with my VallejoΒ Titanic Colors set (see Issue 1) that is incredibly close to the color I wanted. Therefore, I airbrushed my entire Port Hull Section (Bow, Lower) in this new, more accurate color. Once dry, I then applied a topcoat of clear Vallejo Satin Varnish 70.522 to give it a slight shine and protect the color layer:

Step 1

Fit the rounded tabs of the Port Hull Section (Bow, Lower) over these posts of the Port Hull Section (Bow, Upper), as shown:

Secure these Port Hull Sections together with two (2) AM screws.

NOTE: Oddly, the screws included with this partwork have part numbers and type designations that do not match. For example, what is listed as part AM is described as 6×4 mm PM screws. When I measured this screw, it was actually 2.6×4 mm, so I have no idea what they are referring to. Since the instructions refer to the screws by their part number (AM in this case), that is what I will refer to throughout my build.

This is also the first of many friendly reminders to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Step 2

Fit the Connecting Panel to the rear edge of the Port Hull Sections, as shown:

Secure the Connecting Panel to the Port Hull Sections with four (4) AM screws:

It is my understanding that the insides of the ‘hawse’ pipes (anchor chain holes) in the hull were likely painted with anti-fouling paint. Therefore, I used a paint brush to add my new color to the interior of the forward hawse pipe hole, as shown:

UPDATE: While completing Pack 2, I came back and painted the inside of the hawse pipe on the side of this bow panel as well:

Thoughts


On the real Titanic, the hull plates were layered or ‘clinked’ to each other and this detail is nicely captured on these Hull Sections. However, I did notice that the portholes on these Hull Sections are solid, which is odd. Other builders are drilling these out, but I do not plan to go that far on my model. As for the unused Name Plate, keep it stored safely for now.

Next Up


Issue 3 – Engine Cylinders/Piston and Connecting Rods/Columns/Stop Plates/Crankshaft/Cog, Smoke Generator/Tester

21 thoughts on “ISSUE 2”

  1. First of all thank you very much for your excellent and detailed pages. This helps me so much to build R2D2, Ecto-1, Iron-Man and here Titanic.
    When you paint the Port Hull Sections, do ou paint them immediately with each issue? Does the colour still look “from one paint” with each further part? I am still not sure, if I should wait for more parts and paint them then all in once or just do it part after part. What do you recommend?

    1. I paint them as I receive them. As long as I paint them the same way, it should be fine. As the hull is spread out so much in the build, you would be waiting a long time to paint them at the same time.

  2. It is impossible to find 71.442 paint separately, you need to buy a set of Vallejo 71646 and will one tube be enough for the whole ship

    1. Yeah, I found the same and bought two Titanic sets just to have two bottles. So far, it looks like I am going to need both.

  3. Thank you for sharing your information and ideas and you explain everything simply.
    I am not sure about the hull color. I do have Vallejo anti fouling color, but I would be painting it with a brush and unsure how it would work out.
    Leaving it the color that is already on the hull, I have to paint areas on the propellers as the Vallejo color is too pinkish.
    I need to match the color. If you or anyone knows this color, I would appreciate the information very much. Any thoughts would al be appreciated.

  4. Wow, this is exactly what I have been looking for ever since I saw that initial dreadful “red” hull for Hachette model. I mean I’m yet to see it in person but all videos and pictures it just seems so off. As all the research I did it had way more contrast and way more on the red side than purple/pink.
    Also deck paints feel way darker too, than say Titanic Honor and Glory simulations.

    One more thing while Im at it. What are we supposed to do since the model doesnt include yellow line across the ship between black and yellow paint? Since I see that “Titanic” name is too close to white paint, how are we supposed to paint it well so it looks good in the middle? Got any ideas?

    1. Thanks! I have a feeling that we will receive a sticker decal for the yellow/gold sheer line near the end of the build. If it doesn’t look good, I will mask my hull off and paint it myself.

      1. Thanks for the reply!
        One more thing, on issue #1, my wooden deck is darker than yours, did u repaint wood decks across whole ship too, and if so what color did u use? Because all other models and H&G Titanic had way lighter wood deck than this darkish brown I got.

          1. Oh ok cool, because yours look brighter than mine, but as u said it could be pictures and the shade.

            Anyway sorry for all the questions πŸ™‚ but Im brand new to airbrushing so if u can explain a little bit more how exactly does the repainting of the hull (anti-fouling red) work? You simply put the color in the airbrusher and airbrush it on top of the stock hull parts? And once it dries out you put something on it to have a bit of shine?
            If u have some video of it it would be awesome πŸ™‚

            Also maybe stupid question but for how long that paint can last? Will it wear of over time, and would I need to re-do it etc?

          2. Yep, I just paint right over top the stock paint. I give it a light dusting of the new color first, let it dry, then give it two good coats of the new paint color. I tend to let that sit for about 30 minutes, then cover it all with a Vallejo Satin finish, not dull, not gloss, in between. I leave that sit overnight to fully cure. It can take normal handling just fine, but if you scrape it or hit it on something, it can go through the paint.

  5. Also it would be highly appreciated to recommend some cheap option for airbrush+compressor kit, since I really only need it for this Titanic Hachette model (not planning on using it on anything else) would actually be enough those cheap ones around 50-80$ cordless mini airbrush compressors?
    Since Im completely new to all this I have no idea if 20-30psi and 0.3m needle on those cordless models is enough for doing this titanic model with Vallejo model air?

    Any help and recommendation would be appreciated πŸ™‚

    1. Vallejo Model Air should be thinned with a couple drops of Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, then thin it with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner until it is about the consistency of skim milk. Then, use a higher pressure to spray it, such as 25-30psi and it will work just fine – I use a 0.3mm needle. I have never used the cordless airbrushes, so I can’t say how well they work. But many of the cheaper airbrush kits will get the job done OK.

  6. Thanks for all the help, really appreciated!

    I’ve been researching frantically about the real bottom hull color of Titanic and I’ve come across to this color: https://ibb.co/5x8CZ9S
    Since I dont have vallejo air model with the one u used on your mode(71.442) and can only be found in titanic set, I’ve found Molotow spray paint with an almost identical color: https://www.super-hobby.co.uk/products/048-mauve.html

    Now, my question would be, can I actually use Molotow or other spray paints to do the work you’ve done on your model(primarily hull job)
    Since it would be way cheaper option for me than actually buying airbrush+compressor kit which besides Titanic model I wouldn’t need anymore. And I can just buy spray paints I need for rest of the model like funnels for example as my main thing to re-do would be lower hull, funnels and engines.

    Sorry again for hijacking this comment section, it would be lot easier if I could reach via email or something πŸ™‚ , but just wanna be sure I got everything set up before starting the process of painting πŸ™‚

    1. Sure, you can ‘rattle can’ spray paint the lower hull sections. The nice thing is they are separate pieces so you don’t have to mask anything off.

  7. Hey one question about the durability of the paint πŸ™‚
    Since I read you mentioned that using stock as primer and painting it with vallejo air and then satin varnish it will take normal handling just fine but it can be damaged if u hit it or accidentally scratch it.

    So my question is why don’t we just use the thing that’s on the ship from the stock?
    What paints/varnishes/primers were used for its stock model since it looks very durable and it can handle even fingernail scratching? Sorry if this is stupid question, Im super new to this stuff πŸ™‚

    1. The stock paint is an enamel and is very durable. However, I feel the color was not right so I painted over it with acrylic paint and sealed it with a few coats of satin clear. Acrylic is not as durable as enamel, but the clear coat does help protect it during normal handling. If I were to scratch my new paint, I can always sand and paint over that area again without issue. If we scratch the stock paint, we don’t have a matching color.

        1. I use acrylics because they are water-based paints and I find them easier to clean up, create much less toxic fumes, and are simpler to use.

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